Bisabolol and its cosmetic applications
Jacek Arct 1/, Katarzyna Pytkowska 2/, Agnieszka Ciesielska 3/, Magdalena Dyderska 3/
1/ Dr Seidel Foundation, Warsaw
2/ Warsaw College of Engineering and Health
3/ Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care, Warsaw
Bisabolol and its oxides are the main active ingredients of chamomile oil obtained from chamomile (common, Matricaria chamomila) or Roman chamomile (noble, Chamaemelum nobile). These are stable compounds but quite challenging to prepare in the purest state. Currently, due to the difficulties of isolation, it is obtained only synthetically or biotechnologically. Of the four stereoisomers, only the naturally most common (-)-α-bisabolol (levomenol) is endowed with biological activity. Due to the broad spectrum of biological activity, it has been widely used in cosmetics. It is mainly used as a soothing agent. Papers questioning the anti-irritation properties of levomenol were based on erroneous assumptions. It has been found to lighten discolouration, limit the development of microorganisms, has anti-ulcer, cytostatic and other activities. (-)-α-Bisabolol was found to be completely harmless and recommended for use in baby care cosmetics. Reported cases of allergies result from contamination with antecotulides found in dog chamomile (Anthemis cotula).
Key words: chamomile, bisabolol, cosmetics, anti-irritant, anti-bacterial, discoloration, cytostatic