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Copyright @ Pol J Cosmetol
Pol J Cosmetol 2025, 28(4): 107-117pl  Melasma: pathomechanisms of hyperpigmentation and the selection of active ingredients in cosmetologyAleksandra Werner 1/, Anna Erkiert-Polguj 2/ 1/ Zakład Chemii Surowców Kosmetycznych, Wydział Farmaceutyczny, Uniwersytet Medyczny w Łodzi 2/ Zakład Kosmetologii i Dermatologii Estetycznej, Wydział Farmaceutyczny, Uniwersytet Medyczny w Łodzi Summary Melasma is a chronic, recurrent pigmentary disorder characterized by a complex and multifactorial pathogenesis, posing a significant therapeutic challenge in both dermatology and cosmetology. For many years, its development was attributed primarily to melanocyte hyperactivity and dysregulated melanogenesis. However, current evidence indicates that chronic inflammation, oxidative stress, basement membrane disruption, vascular alterations, increased mast cell density, and photoaging processes also play important roles in the development and persistence of melasma. The interplay between these mechanisms creates a complex skin microenvironment that promotes hyperpigmentation and may limit the effectiveness of therapies targeting melanogenesis alone. The aim of this review was to present current knowledge on the pathogenic mechanisms underlying melasma and to discuss active ingredients used in cosmetology that may modulate different stages of disease development. A multifaceted therapeutic approach, taking into account the complexity of melasma pathogenesis and simultaneously targeting several pathogenic pathways, may improve treatment outcomes and reduce the risk of recurrence. Key words: melasma, hyperpigmentation, pathogenesis, cosmetological therapy, active ingredients |