The influence of the presence of the polypeptides in solutions on the transepidermal transport of selected hair dyes
Jacek Arct 1/, Monika Tomasiak 2/, Katarzyna Pytkowska 1/
1/ Wyższa Szkoła Zawodowa Kosmetyki i Pielęgnacji Zdrowia w Warszawie
2/ Wydział Chemiczny Politechniki Warszawskiej
Introduction. Recently, a growing number of cosmetics contains protein hydrolysates. These compounds are added as moisturizers or as additives moderating effect of the anionic surface active agents. There are no reports on the effect of protein hydrolysates on the bioavailability of the active ingredients.
Aim. The aim of this study was to determine whether and how the protein hydrolysates could affect transepidermal transport of substances of different polarity.
Materials and Methods. In the transepidermal transport rate of three direct dyes, differing in polarity, in the presence of hydrolysates of collagen with different molecular weight were studied using in vitro method and lipid membranes modeling stratum corneum.
Results. It was found. that all hydrolysates accelerated dyes transepidermal transport. The degree of acceleration depend on the molecular weight of the hydrolyzate. Highest acceleration was observed in the case of products with a high degree of hydrolysis. The reason for this effect is probably impact amino acids on the membrane lipids.
Conclusions. Protein hydrolysates should be used in cosmetics with caution because they may increase the bioavailability of certain active ingredients
Key words: penetration, transepidermal transport, protein hydrolysates, active substances, cosmetics bioavilability