Proper selection of cosmetic ingredients as a key factor in skin penetration of flavonoids - in vivo studies
Jacek Arct 1/, Anna Oborska 2,3/, Mirosław Mojski 1,2/, Maciej Chudzicki 2/
1/ Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care, Warsaw
2/ Faculty of Chemistry, Warsaw University of Technology
3/ Polish Association of Cosmetics and Home Care Producers
Introduction. Flavonoids are natural antioxidants widely used in cosmetics. The primary obstacle to the wider use of these compounds is relatively poor bioavailability of the cosmetic preparations. In vivo methods for assessing the ability of the penetration of active substances into the skin, they are usually in more or less invasive and require the use of sophisticated equipment.
Aim. The aim of the study was the investigation of influence of the moisturizing agents presence on the ability of quercetin and its glycoside - routine to penetrate the skin.
Materials and methods. We used in vivo method involving the application to the skin of the proband defined quantities of prenetrants and washing the unabsorbed residues after a certain time. Determination of flavonoids was made by UV spectroscopy.
Results. Hydrophilic substances and emulsifiers used decreased, penetration of quercetin by epidermal barrier. The results were entirely consistent with previously obtained by in vitro methods. Obtained data confirm the proposed mechanism of influence the hydrophilic materials presence on skin penetration of lipophilic penetrants.
Conclusions. It was found that the commonly used cosmetic ingredients can significantly reduce the bioavailability of flavonoids. It has been proved the possibility of non-invasive assessment of skin penetration by using a simple method in vivo.
Key words: flavonoids, quercetin, rutin, skin penetration, penetration in vivo, hydrophilic ingredients