Powder cosmetics - routine or challenge?
Magdalena Nalepa 1,2/, Anna Laudańska-Maj 1,2/, Agnieszka Gadomska-Gajadhur 2/
1/ Bell Sp. z o.o. w Józefowie
2/ Wydział Chemiczny, Politechnika Warszawska
Pressed eyeshadows, bronzers, powders, highlighters or blushes are products belonging to the powder cosmetics group. Increasing consumer demands for color cosmetics products elicits a development of this branch of industry, which is associated with looking for new, innovative methods of a production. The standard method of manufacturing powder products consists in compressing under pressure masses obtained from combination of the formulation base, which is composed of raw materials in a loose form, with binding components, the so-called binder. The use of appropriate raw materials allows to achieve the intended qualities of the cosmetic. Different sensory and application properties can be obtained by adding a volatile solvent to the formulation. Then, the mass takes a form of a slurry, which is injected under pressure into a die with a predetermined shape and then pressed. The product is ready, when the solvent completely evaporates. The solvent method, due to its greater complexity compared to the standard method, requires to control not only the amount of used base and binder, but also the solvent content and the influence of viscosity modifying chemical components. The information contained in the article allows to get acquainted with the basics of formulating powder cosmetics and indicate what are the key parameters of controlling the process of manufacturing slurry powder form.
Key words: powder cosmetics, pressure pressing, suspensions of pigment particles, viscosity modifiers