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Copyright @ Pol J Cosmetol
 
ISSN 1731-0083
Monday, 24.02.2020
PL EN
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Pol J Cosmetol 2019, 22(3): 208-216pladd to cart

Manuka honey as a prescription component of currently used therapeutic and revitalizing cosmetic preparations


Marian M. Zgoda 1/, Andrzej Stańczak 2/, Anna Pham 1/, Justyna Kołodziejska 3/, Sławomira Nowak 4/, Zbigniew Marczyński 2/

/ Wyższa Szkoła Kosmetyki i Nauk o Zdrowiu w Łodzi
/ Zakład Farmacji Aptecznej, Katedra Farmacji Stosowanej, Uniwersytet Medyczny w Łodzi
/ Pracownia Kosmetyki Farmaceutycznej Zakład Technologii Postaci Leku Katedra Farmacji Stosowanej, Uniwersytet Medyczny w Łodzi
/ Katedra i Zakład Farmakognozji, Uniwersytet Medyczny w Łodzi

Summary
Introduction. Manuka honey containing glycosal and methylglyoxal is characterized by original pharmacotherapeutic properties, which were used, among others, in the treatment of staphylococcus infections as well as in difficult to heal wounds induced by antibiotic and sulfonamide-resistant strains. The therapeutic effectiveness of cosmetic preparations is a derivative of the prescription composition.
Aim. The aim of the conducted research was the physicochemical analysis and pharmacokinetic evaluation of cosmetic creams containing manuka honey. The practical viscosity of the formulations as well as the rate of water and volatile components loss were tested.
Material and methods. Moisturizing and nourishing creams containing manuka honey or extract, provitamin B5 and a complex of vitamins A, E, F were used for tests. The rate of water and volatile components loss was determined by the pharmacopoeial method.
Results. The determined high water and volatile components content in the investigated skin care and moisturizing creams indicates that they are hydrogel o/w emulsions of "HIPRE" type. The content of structural and constitutive water was also determined at 50°C and 37°C. The rate of mass exchange at the phase boundary confirms that the diffusing stream of hydrophilic therapeutic agents proceeds only from the surface layers of the formulation applied to the skin. This determines the frequency of application (dosage) and the exposure time of the preparation on the skin.
Conclusions. The performed comprehensive pharmacokinetic studies confirm the high application values of revitalizing creams containing manuka honey (methylglyoxal carrier) in the prescription composition. However, therapeutic agents (methylglyoxal, coumarin, allantoin), phytochemicals and essential oils contained in preparations are characterized by a bioavailability factor (bioavailability=1), which determines their endo- and diadermal effectiveness.

Key words: manuka honey, cosmetic preparations, phytochemicals, revitalizing creams, rheological parameters, bioavailability