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Copyright @ Pol J Cosmetol
 
ISSN 1731-0083
Thursday, 28.03.2024
PL EN
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Pol J Cosmetol 2021, 24(1): 1-15pladd to cart

Methods of assessing bioavailability of active substances in cosmetics. Part II. Ex vivo and in silico methods


Jacek Arct 1/, Ewa Starzyk 2/, Katarzyna Kuczkowska-Kozyra 3/, Adam Eysymont 3/

1/ Fundacja dr Seidla w Warszawie
2/ Polski Związek Przemysłu Kosmetycznego
3/ Wydział Chemiczny, Politechnika Warszawska

Summary
Determining the optimal dermal bioavailability of cosmetically active substances is complex. Accurate determination requires measurements of the substance´s concentration at the site of its action. The known mathematical methods only allow for a particular decision of the active substance´s amount penetrating the skin. The most commonly used methods are in vitro methods using Franz diffusion cells. However, they do not provide accurate data on the permeation rate and concentration of substances in the skin´s layers. This is possible thanks to the previously discussed in vivo tests and ex vivo measurements - biopsy and stripping stratum corneum. Mathematical methods can also help, but due to their diversity and lack of validation, they cannot always be used. It would be desirable to establish an exact model for the relationship between lipophilicity and skin absorption capacity. Such a model based on a significant number of compounds from many different series of different structures has not been described in the literature so far.
The article discusses both the biopsy and stripping ex vivo methods used to determine the amount of active substances penetrating the skin. A separate chapter is devoted to methods of theoretical prediction of bioavailability of externally used cosmetically active substances.

Key words: bioavailability, ex vivo methods, biopsies, stripping, mathematical methods