The skin colouring properties of curcuma extract
Jacek Arct, Magdalena Mieloch, Martyna Witulska, Anna Ratz-Łyko
Department of Cosmetics Chemistry, Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care, Warsaw, Poland
Background. Hyperpigmentation and cellular skin damages after exposure to UV radiation caused the growing interest in search for natural skin colouring ingredients without mentioned side effects.
Aim. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the skin colouring properties of curcuma extract in an oil-in-water emulsion cream.
Material and methods. Skin colouring properties was evaluated on the group of ten (I and II) Fitzpatrick skin phototype scale healthy volunteers. Objective measurements of the skin colour changes were done by Chromameter using the CIE L*a*b* colour space parameters. These measurements were correlated with the results of the sensory analysis.
Results. The observations showed permanent, visible and statistically significant changing of b* component after one application of an oil-in-water emulsion containing 12% and 25% of curcuma extract. The change of skin color remained also after removing the emulsion. The sensory analysis indicated that the tested emulsions with curcuma extract have a significant impact on skin smoothness, spreadability, cosmetic absorption and pillow effect.
Conclusions. On the basis of the obtained results it may be concluded that curcuma extract has potential colouring properties therefore may be used as an active ingredient to improve skin colour (in the self-tanning preparations or in BB creams).
Key words: curcuma (turmeric) extract, skin colour changes, chromameter measurements, sensory analysis