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Pol J Cosmetol 2023, 26(4): 213-221pl  Cosmetic preparations used for effective hair care and washing. Part II. Specialist and oriental shampoosMarian M. Zgoda 1/, Justyna Kołodziejska 2/, Sławomira Nowak 3/, Zbigniew Marczyński 4/, Magdalena Markowicz-Piasecka 4/ 1/ Zakład Technologii Postaci Leku, Katedra Farmacji Stosowanej Uniwersytetu Medycznego w Łodzi (prof. senior) 2/ Pracownia Kosmetyki Farmaceutycznej, Katedra Farmacji Stosowanej Uniwersytetu Medycznego w Łodzi 3/ Katedra i Zakład Farmakognozji Uniwersytetu Medycznego w Łodzi 4/ Zakład Farmacji Aptecznej Katedra Farmacji Stosowanej Uniwersytetu Medycznego w Łodzi Summary Introduction. The market of specialist and oriental shampoos recommended by dermatologists for hair and scalp washing and caring includes preparations with an original composition of plant extracts, therapeutic agents, amino acids and, above all, surface-active compounds (surfactants), which constitute their morphological "vehiculum". The therapeutic profile declared by the manufacturer, confirmed by clinical trials, was an inspiration to conduct comparative physicochemical studies. Aim. The determined physicochemical values decide about the practical durability and, above all, the pharmacotherapeutic effectiveness and safety of using this class of shampoos in hair and scalp care. Material and methods. The subject of the investigations were specialist and oriental shampoos recommended by dermatologists, the content of which includes, among others, original compositions of plant extracts, therapeutic agents, amino acids, vitamins and preservatives. Water and volatile components content, hydrogen ion activity, viscosity, surface tension and electrical conductivity were determined using pharmacopoeial methods. Results. Determined in aqueous shampoo solutions: hydrogen ion activity, surface tension, electrical conductivity and morphological viscosity of the preparations confirmed the stability and practical durability of the preparations and the physiological safety of their use. The calculated diffusion coefficient indicates the endo- and diadermal effect of therapeutic agents, amino acids, carboxylic acids, essential oils and preservatives. Conclusions. Physicochemical analysis of the morphological structure and recipe composition of specialist and oriental shampoos indicate effective pharmacotherapeutic healing and care effects in the process of cleansing the scalp and hair from excess sebum, components of hair sprays, conditioners, as well as in improving the condition of hair and preventing hair loss. Key words: specialist and oriental shampoos, therapeutic agents, amino acids, plant extracts, bioavailability |