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Pol J Cosmetol 2025, 28(1): 29-39en  Development of formulations and evaluation of the effectiveness of moisturizing cosmetics in the form of oil and water essence creating an emulsion - comparative studiesZuzanna Gruba 1/, Paulina Mucha 1/, Ewelina Namiecińska 1/, Juliusz Sosnowski 2/, Anna Erkiert-Polguj 3/ 1/ Department of the Chemistry of Cosmetic Raw Materials, Faculty of Pharmacy, Medical University of Lodz 2/ Department of Molecular Biology, Medical University of Lodz 3/ Department of Cosmetology and Aesthetic Dermatology, Faculty of Pharmacy, Medical University of Lodz Summary Introduction. The hydrolipid barrier is a layer of the skin composed of secretions of sebaceous glands and epidermal lipids, with sweat glands (water) - like natural emulsion. Likewise, skincare products in the form of creams consist of the aqueous and the lipid phase. Aim. The aim of this study is to compare the effectiveness of two cosmetics´ skincare models - an essence (aqueous) and an oil (anhydrous) - simultaneously represent the aqueous and oil phases (emulsion). Unlike cream the essence and oil do not contain emulsifiers similarly to the natural hydrolipid barrier. Material and methods. The study involved 15 young healthy individuals. The tested preparations were applied on: the left side of the face moisturizing cream and moisturizing essence + oil on the right side. The hydration, TEWL and sebum were measured. before the application, and 4, 6, and 24 h after. Results. Hydration on the cheek where the cream was applied increased over time up to 6 h and then remained stable. Application of the essence followed by oil on the other cheek did not show significant differences in hydration. TEWL after the use of both preparations didn´t change. Conclusions. Results indicate that the cream exhibits better moisturizing properties compared to the combination of essence and oil. Key words: hydrolipid barrier, cosmetic formulation, hydration, transepidermal water loss, sebum |