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Copyright @ Pol J Cosmetol
Pol J Cosmetol 2009, 12(1): 23-37pl,en  Solid lipid nanoparticles and nanostructured lipid carriers in novel cosmeticsHanna Wosicka, Janina Lulek Katedra i Zakład Technologii Postaci Leku Uniwersytetu Medycznego w Poznaniu Summary Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) and nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) are quite new carrier systems, gaining more and more interest both in pharmacy and cosmetology. This paper reveals latest data on lipid nanoparticles structure and preparation methods. It also presents size of SLN and NLC according to lipids, emulsifiers and technique used for their preparation. Possibilities and models of active ingredients incorporation into nanoparticles are discussed according to the latest literature. Advantages and disadvantages as well as differences between SLN and NLC are listed. Occlusive and adhesive properties of lipid nanoparticles are characterized with appropriate examples. Different ways of releasing of active substances and in vitro skin permeation of reviewed carriers are presented. Lubricating and whitening effects of the nanoparticles as well as their ability to scatter UV rays, enabling to use them as physical sunscreens are discussed. The paper also reviews, according to the available data, relevant possibilities of SLN and NLC application in today´s cosmetology. Cosmetic actives that have already been incorporated into lipid nanoparticles and cosmetic products with this carriers already present on the market are listed. The last part of the paper emphasizes potential toxicity of SLN/NLC and the problem of too low loading capacity for incorporation of active substances. Key words: SLN, NLC, lipids, nanoparticles, cosmetics, skin, occlusion |