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Pol J Cosmetol 2013, 16(2): 85-92pl  The role of hydroxyacids in cosmeticsAgnieszka Feliczak-Guzik, Katarzyna Jagodzińska, Izabela Nowak Wydział Chemii, Uniwersytet im. Adama Mickiewicza w Poznaniu Summary Skin aging is a subject to its impaired shedding of the stratum corneum. The methods of skin exfoliation can be divided into thermal, mechanical and chemical. Both synthetic and natural hydroxy acids (α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, polyhydroxy acids) are used in a technique involving exfoliation of corneocytes adjacent to each other, i.e. a chemical exfoliation. These acids have the ability to increase skin hydration, elasticity and firmness of the skin and thus reduce wrinkles. In addition, they contribute to reducing skin discoloration after inflammation or sun exposure as well as minimize scar tissue from acne. Hydroxy acids which are commonly used in cosmetics include lactic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid and tartaric acid. These acids are mainly derived from fruits, but may also be obtained by chemical and biotechnological processes. The most common acids include α-hydroxy acids (AHA, alpha hydroxy acids), which are soluble in water, lipophilic β-hydroxy acids (BHA, beta hydroxy acids) and a relatively recently discovered polyhydroxy acid (PHA, polyhydroxyacid). Key words: alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, polyhydroxy acids, exfoliation of epidermis, antioxidants, moisturizing properties |