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Pol J Cosmetol 2013, 16(2): 137-149pl  The compounds of substitutes of high quality oriental perfumes determined by technique GC/MS. Part I. Perfumes intended for womenKarolina Boryna 1/, Wiktor Wesołowski 2,3/, Joanna Borowiecka 4/ 1/ ICN Polfa Rzeszów S.A. 2/ Zakład Toksykologii Katedry Toksykologii i Bromatologii Wydziału Farmaceutycznego Uniwersytetu Medycznego w Łodzi 3/ Instytut Medycyny Pracy w Łodzi 4/ Wyższej Szkoły Informatyki i Umiejętności w Łodzi Summary Introduction. The typical compounds of oriental composition are: musk, vanillin, amber, spices. Currently, the components of plant and animal origin which are used for the construction of oriental composition are replaced by synthetic compounds. Aim. The aim of this study was determination of quality composition and content of ingredients of substitutes of high quality perfumes using GC/MS technique. The statement if the used ingredients comply with approved by IFRA Guidelines. Material and methods. Twenty two perfumes from oriental line intended for women which are substitutes of original high quality products, were determined using GC/MS technique. The principle of determination was based on a comparison of MS spectra recorded GC chromatographic peak with the highest value retention time (RT) sample with MS spectrum of the standard set out in the library spectra. Results. The results of GC/MS analysis led to conclusion that in all products was solvent - diethyl phthalate. In the largest number of samples were observed the following compounds: dihydromethyl jasmonate, LilialTM, Musk T®, Musk 36A®, Ambrox® and linalool. LilialTM was observed in eighteen substitutes in concentration 0.07-10.10% and it gives convallaria fragrance. Dihydromethyl jasmonate was present in twenty one samples in amount 1.31-15.20%. The macrocyclic musks: Ambretolid® and Musk T® (ethyl brassylate) give characteristic stable, penetrating fragrance and additionally, serve function of smell fixer. The results of GC/MS analysis allowed to identify polycyclic musks, such as: Tonalid®, Galaxolide® and Musk 36A® in fifteen samples (0.11-13.61%). In twenty samples was observed linalool (0.18-5.45%), which gives refreshing, floral-woody aroma with light citrus hint to the oriental composition. Conclusions. The results of analysis of substitutes of high quality perfumes from oriental line with using GC/MS technique indicate that components and their concentration comply with IFRA Guidelines in all products. Key words: oriental line, oriental perfumes intended for women, GC/MS |