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Pol J Cosmetol 2013, 16(4): 286-292pl  The compounds of substitutes of high quality oriental perfumes determined by technique GC/MS. Part II. Perfumes intended for menKarolina Boryna 1/, Wiktor Wesołowski 2,3/, Joanna Borowiecka 4/ 1/ PharmaSwiss Poland Sp. z o.o. w Warszawie 2/ Zakład Toksykologii Katedry Toksykologii i Bromatologii Wydziału Farmaceutycznego Uniwersytetu Medycznego w Łodzi 3/ Instytut Medycyny Pracy w Łodzi 4/ Wyższa Szkoła Informatyki i Umiejętności w Łodzi Summary Introduction. Composition of oriental fragrances are called as a heat and exotic thanks to sweet notes of vanilla, spicy scents, animal and wood aromas. Aim. Determination of the qualitative composition of selected substitutes from oriental line distributed by one of the firm by using GC/MS technique. Determination of whether ingredients used in composition comply with Standards approved by IFRA. Material and methods. Eleven oriental perfumes from oriental line intended for men was analyzed using GC/MS technique. The principle of designation is a comparison of the registered MS spectra of the chromatographic peak with the highest value GC retention time with a reference sample spectra contained in the library MS spectra. Results. The results of GC/MS analysis in perfumery products in oriental-floral, oriental-spicy, oriental-ambergis, oriental-woody groups allowed to state that they contain from 64 to 88 compounds. The solvents in the analyzed products were: DEP, isopropyl myristate, dipropylene glycol. Musk T® was present in an amount of 0.03-12.39% in all analyzed samples. Ambrox® was found in six articles (0.66-1.60%), it was not present in the products in oriental-floral group. Galaxolide® appeared in nine products in all groups. All of the analyzed products contain bicyclic monoterpenes α- and β-pinene. There were detected hydrocarbons: cyclic - limonene in ten products and acyclic - β-mircene in nine articles. The following compounds containing osmophor carbonyl were present: α-damascone, vanillin, Bourbonal®, α- and β-isomethylionones, Lilial®, isocyclocitral, ionone. Toluene, which is prohibited for use in cosmetic products and perfumes according to IFRA Standards, was observed in four from eleven products. Conslusions. Seven analysed (GC/MS) products contain ingredients which comply with IFRA Guideline and four products contain toluene, which use is prohibited according to the Guidelines IFRA. Key words: oriental line, perfumes intended for men, GC/MS |