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Copyright @ Pol J Cosmetol
Pol J Cosmetol 2018, 21(3): 244-252pl  Rheological and application properties of revitalizing creams containing selected plant extracts and stem cellsJustyna Kołodziejska 1/, Sławomira Nowak 2/, Zbigniew Marczyński 3/, Katarzyna Fogler 4/, Marian M. Zgoda 4/ 1/ Pracownia Kosmetyki Farmaceutycznej, Zakład Technologii Postaci Leku Katedra Farmacji Stosowanej Uniwersytet Medyczny w Łodzi 2/ Katedra i Zakład Farmakognozji Uniwersytet Medyczny w Łodzi 3/ Zakład Farmacji Aptecznej Katedra Farmacji Stosowanej Uniwersytet Medyczny w Łodzi 4/ Wyższa Szkoła Kosmetyki i Nauk o Zdrowiu w Łodzi Summary Introduction. Cosmetic preparations with a prescription composition of the HIPRE - type emulsion were used as a vehicle to produce a market form of cosmetics containing not only original plant extracts, argan oil, vitamins E and C but also callus culture of stem cells. The hydrogel structure of the preparations consists of a cross-linked Carbomer as well as Hydromanil™, which promotes deep hydration of the stratum corneum. Aim. The aim of the research on market preparations with the morphological structure of the hydrogel emulsion was to estimate the rate of volatile components loss, to determine the values of the yield stress. This will allow estimate in vitro the rate of mass exchange of biologically active structures at the phase boundary. Material and methods. Market preparations with stem cells were tested. The rate of volatile component loss was tested. The diffusion rate of the stream of ions to the external compartment was estimated in vitro. Results. In the hydrogel structure of preparations, the determined content of volatile components - despite introduction of hydrogel water-binding complexes into their prescription - was 60% to 86% of their mass. The determined yield stress for the tested preparations allowed calculating the diffusion coefficient for medicinal agents, citric acid and preservatives. The presence of triglycerides and vit. B significantly impedes the process of mass exchange at the phase boundary, despite a significant difference in the gradient of osmolarity. The measured pH values of the preparations are compatible with the activity of the hydrogen ion on the skin surface. Conclusions. Hydrogel HIPRE-type emulsions are original moisturizing formulations in the composition of which there are hydrophilic biopolymers and cross-linked synthetic polymers, which determine the viscosity of the preparations and their effectiveness. Plant extracts, vitamins E and C as well as citric acid and stem cells are advantageous for skin revitalization during the exposure. Key words: revitalizing creams, pharmaceutical availability, yield stress, stem cells |