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Pol J Cosmetol 2019, 22(2): 119-127en  Phytochemical and dermabrasive properties of the formulation used in herbal peelingMarian M. Zgoda 1/, Justyna Kołodziejska 2/, Andrzej Stańczak 4/, Zbigniew Marczyński 4/, Sławomira Nowak 3/, Justyna Bąkowska 1/, Joanna Rączkiewicz 1/, Michał K. Kołodziejczyk 5/ 1/ Higher School of Cosmetology and Health Science in Lodz 2/ Laboratory of Pharmaceutical Cosmetics, Department of Drug Form Technology, Chair of Applied Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmacy, Medical University in Lodz 3/ Department of Pharmacognosy, Chair of Pharmacognosy, Faculty of Pharmacy, Medical University in Lodz 4/ Department of Pharmacy, Chair of Applied Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmacy, Medical University in Lodz 5/ Department of Drug Form Technology, Chair of Applied Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmacy, Medical University in Lodz Summary Introduction. Understanding the specificity of the effect of herbal scrub is only possible in the context of the knowledge of the chemical composition of herbs in the peeling mixture and the course of processes activating active substances contained in the plant material. Aim. Evaluation of the effectiveness of the "Polish Herbal Peeling" formulation by calculating thermodynamic parameters of phytochemical structures applied in the plant material and by testing the rheological properties and kinetics of the mass exchange process at the phase boundary. Methods. The molar enthalpy of vaporization and effective molecular volume were calculated for phytochemical structures applied in the plant material. The test of the rate of ion diffusion from the herbal peeling formulation to model acceptor fluid was performed in accordance with the requirements used for therapeutic systems. Results. Logarithm of the partition coefficient (log P), calculated on the basis of the general Hildebrand-Scatchard-Fedors theory of solubility, indicates significant possibilities of endo- and diadermal activity of phytochemicals contained in herbal scrub at high and stable pKa value. During the time after preparing formulation for the peeling treatment, changes in the concentration of diffusing ions were observed, which should be related to the swelling of the comminuted plant material and also to physical adsorption of the constituents of the formulation. Conclusions. The prescription of "Lotion-Concentrate" formulation which contains phytochemicals of bioavailability coefficient=1 determines the endo- and diadermal process of mass exchange at the phase boundary. The comminuted plant material binds a specific, significant amount of electrolyte and produces a hydrogel vehiculum, which during the treatment ensures high bioadhesiveness of the formulation and stability of the diffusion coefficient of active substances. Key words: herbal scrub, phytochemicals, dermabrasion, viscosity, diffusion of active substances |