Comparison of the action of alpha-hydroxy acids
Karolina Leleń-Kamińska 1/, Jacek Arct 2/, Malwina Witkowska 3/
1/ Henkel Polska sp. z o.o.
2/ Fundacja dr Seidla w Warszawie
3/ Wyższa Szkoła Zawodowa Kosmetyki i Pielęgnacji Zdrowia w Warszawie
Introduction. Preparations with alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA), due to their effectiveness and multidirectional action, are popular today not only among specialists: dermatologists and cosmetologists, but also among ordinary consumers.
Aim. The study aimed to evaluate the effectiveness of skin lightening of simple cosmetic preparations containing various compounds from the AHA group.
Materials and methods. Emulsions containing the appropriate AHAs were applied to the skin tinted with a self-tanning mixture. The measurement was taken 24 hours after applying the self-tanner and after 10, 60, and 120 minutes. from the application of an AHA emulsion. Measurements were made using a chromameter. The percentage of skin lightening relative to the control field was calculated.
Results and conclusions. All AHAs caused an increase in ΔL, however. for each acid, the degree of lightning is different. The least visible results were obtained from citric acid; glycolic acid turned out to be the most effective. This was consistent with the predictions and measurements of AHA penetration into the skin. Changes in lightening over time may form the basis for the development of new cosmetics with AHA.
Key words: alpha-hydroxy acids, AHA, skin lightening, activity comparison