Stripping method in flavonoids skin penetration measurement
Jacek Arct 1/, Anna Oborska 2,3/, Mirosław Mojski 1,2/, Katarzyna Kozyra 2/, Sergiusz Dzierzgowski 1/
1/ Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care, Warsaw
2/ Faculty of Chemistry, Warsaw University of Technology
3/ Polish Association of Cosmetics and Home Care Producers
The penetration of the skin is the most important factor for the action of biologically active substances used in cosmetics. Method in vivo of almost non-invasive evaluation of the penetration of active ingredients into the skin is stripping. It is used to evaluate penetration of the stratum corneum, the epidermal growth kinetics and other diagnostic purposes. Flavonoids are natural antioxidants widely used in cosmetics. The primary obstacle to the wider use of these compounds is their relatively poor bioavailability from the cosmetic preparations. The number of publications devoted to this problem is still small. The aim of this study was to familiarize readers with the method of stripping and verify its usefulness in the study of transepidermal transport of flavonoids.
As a model permeant catechin was used. To determine it in the individual stripps HPLC was used. The amount of the permeant penetrating stratum corneum was calculated by the method of carrying.We found that about 30% applied to human skin catechin excreted the stratum corneum within 60 minutes under the experimental conditions.On the example of catechin the usefulness of the method of stripping to study the transepidermal transport of flavonoids was prooved.
Key words: stripping, stratum corneum, flavonoids, catechin, penetration, penetration in vivo